Parking your RV for winter takes more preparation than finding a place where it fits. Water left in the plumbing can freeze, food and crumbs can attract pests, and small exterior maintenance problems are easier to address before the RV sits for an extended period. The exact winterization procedure varies by RV, so your owner's manual should always be the starting point.
Where you park matters too. At our White Pine property, we offer covered and uncovered RV and camper parking, with availability changing over time. If you're comparing storage options in White Pine, checking the type and size of parking available before winter makes it easier to plan around your particular RV.
There isn't one winterization procedure that applies exactly to every motorhome, fifth wheel, or travel trailer. Water heater systems, drain locations, bypass valves, appliances, filters, and plumbing layouts differ between manufacturers and models. We advise owners to consult the manual for the locations, components, and procedures specific to their RV.
This matters most when working with the plumbing system. Find the instructions for draining the fresh and holding tanks, winterizing the water heater, locating low-point drains, and protecting every water line and fixture. If the manufacturer specifies a particular winterization method, pressure limit, or product, follow those directions rather than relying on a generic checklist.
Protecting the plumbing is one of the most important parts of preparing an RV for freezing conditions. Start by disconnecting outside water sources and draining the fresh water and holding tanks according to the manufacturer's directions. The water heater also needs to be handled according to its specific instructions.
Before draining a water heater, make sure it is turned off, cool, and depressurized. The exact draining procedure depends on the equipment installed in your RV. Some systems have a drain plug, some use an anode rod, and other water-heating systems have their own procedures, which is another reason to keep the owner's manual nearby. Don't overlook smaller water sources. Exterior showers, spray ports, toilets, ice makers, washing machines, filters, and similar equipment may require separate winterization if your RV has them.
RV manufacturers generally provide model-specific procedures for removing or displacing water remaining in the plumbing. Depending on the RV, this may involve an approved compressed-air procedure, RV antifreeze, or a specified combination of steps. If your RV calls for antifreeze, use only a product approved for RV potable-water systems. Automotive antifreeze is not a substitute. Some manuals warn against using automotive antifreeze in an RV water system and describe using non-toxic RV water-system antifreeze instead.
A common antifreeze procedure involves bypassing the water heater and using the RV's water pump to draw antifreeze through the plumbing. Each hot and cold fixture is then opened individually until antifreeze reaches it. Drain traps also need protection. Your RV may have additional fixtures that must be included, so follow the sequence provided by its manufacturer.
Some RVs can also be winterized by blowing water from the lines with compressed air. Pressure requirements are manufacturer-specific, so don't assume that a pressure setting recommended for one RV is appropriate for another. Follow the manual or have an RV service professional handle the plumbing if you're uncertain about the procedure.
Once the water system is addressed, clean the RV before parking it. Remove food from cabinets, the refrigerator, freezer, drawers, and other compartments. Dry goods shouldn't be left behind simply because they're sealed. Food residue and crumbs can attract insects or rodents during a long storage period.
Vacuum floors and upholstered areas, wipe down food-preparation surfaces, empty trash, and make sure nothing damp is left inside. Clean the refrigerator and freezer, then follow the appliance manufacturer's storage instructions. In many RVs, leaving cleaned refrigerator doors slightly open helps prevent stale odors and mildew while the appliance is off.
Take out medications, important documents, valuables, and other belongings that don't need to remain in the RV. Bedding, towels, and camping gear should be completely dry before they're stored. Starting winter with a clean, dry interior also makes spring preparation considerably simpler.
Winterization isn't limited to the plumbing. Before parking the RV, inspect the exterior for maintenance issues that are easier to correct now than after several months in storage. Look at the roof and the sealed areas around vents, skylights, antennas, windows, doors, and other exterior openings that apply to your RV. If you find damaged or deteriorated sealant, use the repair procedure and products specified by the RV manufacturer. Water intrusion that begins through a small exterior opening can reach walls, insulation, flooring, or cabinetry before it becomes obvious inside. Clean the exterior before storage as well. Dirt and debris can hide cracks, damaged seals, or other areas that deserve attention. Our guide to preparing an RV for uncovered outdoor storage goes further into exterior preparation when the camper will remain exposed overhead.
Inspect the tires for visible damage and check their pressure according to the RV and tire manufacturers' specifications. Don't rely on a generic pressure recommendation, since the correct pressure depends on the tire and vehicle.
Think about where and how the RV will sit as well. Follow the RV and tire manufacturers' recommendations for extended parking, including any instructions concerning tire loading, leveling, covers, or movement during storage. If the tires are already showing questionable wear or damage, deal with that before parking rather than discovering the problem when you're ready for the first trip of spring.
Battery storage procedures depend on the battery chemistry, RV electrical system, and whether shore power or a maintenance charger will be available. Check the RV and battery manufacturers' instructions before disconnecting, charging, or maintaining batteries through winter.
At minimum, don't put the RV away with a neglected battery and assume it will be ready months later. Confirm its condition and follow the correct storage procedure for the system installed in your rig. If you're not comfortable working around batteries or the RV's electrical system, this is a sensible job to leave to a qualified technician.
Motorhomes have another layer of winter preparation because the engine and chassis will also sit. Check the chassis manufacturer's recommendations for fuel, fluids, engine batteries, and extended storage. Towable RV owners should follow the applicable instructions for wheel bearings, brakes, hitch components, and other running gear.
Avoid applying a generic fuel-storage rule to every RV. Gasoline engines, diesel engines, generators, and different fuel systems can have different maintenance requirements. The manuals for your chassis, engine, and generator are the appropriate sources for those procedures.
Winterizing protects the RV itself, while your parking choice determines how much overhead exposure it will have while stored. At our property on Phillips Road in White Pine, we offer covered and uncovered RV and camper parking when spaces are available. Our current site covers RV and camper spaces at 40 by 12 feet and uncovered spaces at 45 by 12 feet, so measuring the complete rig before choosing a space matters.
Include anything that extends beyond the RV's nominal body length, such as a hitch, rear rack, spare tire, ladder, or other mounted equipment. Width also needs to account for mirrors, steps, fenders, and similar projections. Our RV and camper parking guide for White Pine explains what to measure and what to consider when comparing the two parking types. Covered parking reduces direct overhead exposure while the RV sits. Uncovered parking can work well too, but exterior preparation becomes especially important. Neither option replaces proper winterization of the plumbing, batteries, interior, and mechanical systems.
Before leaving the RV for an extended period, walk around it once more. Check that doors, windows, and exterior compartments are secured, and that awnings, steps, antennas, slides, and other equipment are in the storage position specified by their manufacturers. Inside, make sure food and trash are gone, water-system winterization is complete, and appliances are left in the proper storage condition. Record anything you'll need to reverse in spring, particularly battery connections, water-heater bypass settings, drain positions, or components removed during winterization.
It's also worth checking the RV periodically during the storage period. Look for tire changes, exterior damage, moisture, pest activity, or anything else that wasn't present when you parked it. Finding a problem during storage gives you a chance to address it before the next trip.
Good winter storage begins before the RV reaches its parking space. Follow the manufacturer's winterization procedure, get water out of vulnerable plumbing, clean and dry the interior, inspect the exterior, and address the battery, tires, and mechanical systems that apply to your particular rig. For owners who don't want a camper occupying the driveway all winter, our Phillips Road property near I-81 Exit 4 offers covered and uncovered RV and camper parking when available. You can explore storage options from White Pine Storage to check the property and current parking choices before deciding where your RV will spend the season.